Making Video look like Film

Started by Tiff, January 08, 2003, 06:18:25 PM

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

ReelHotGames

I have cinelook and think it works really well.You need to do some tweaking and its best to light your scenes with the idea that cinelook will be applied, but it works very well.
"Body Count Cinema the Customizable Card Game"
A cinematic CCG coming to a coffee table near you!
www.reelhotgames.com/BodyCountCinema_Home.htm

aclockworkjj

Quote from: michael alessandroI have cinelook and think it works really well.You need to do some tweaking and its best to light your scenes with the idea that cinelook will be applied, but it works very well.

Lighting-wise....what do you need to compensate for???...for instance....does cinelook work best + or - a stop????  shutter speed???.....how do you compensate....and does cinelook really give that great of a look????

Ghostboy

I saw a short film projected from miniDV recently...shot on a PAL PD150, and cinelooked, and the only time I could really tell it was DV was in the closeups. I've never played around with it myself, but now I really want to.

I'd imagine you probably need to overexpose a stop or two, if anything?

Sal

I would assume underexpose a stop or so.  At least that's what's recommended for cams like the agdvx100.

82

Quote from: BobbyYeah I've been wanting to shoot 16:9 untill I read that my Sony VX2000 just does "fake widescreen" and instead just cuts off image.  I was thinking of shooting with a wide angle lens and putting tape on the lcd monitor to where it would be cropped at and do it in premiere, so it looks "cool".


Yikes. i dunno.. are you going to digitally correct the distortion in post or something?
"We're all one thing, Lieutenant. That's what I've come to realize. Like cells in a body. 'Cept we can't see the body. The way fish can't see the ocean. And so we envy each other. Hurt each other. Hate each other. How silly is that? A heart cell hating a lung cell"

ReelHotGames

You'll need to overexpose slightly, but the best thing to do is run some tests to find your best settings, don't go in blind and trust it will all wokr out in post.

As for the 16x9 SOny "fake" widescreen, um... So... Just shoot in the widescreen mode if you want a widescreen or letterbox look, then shoot in widescreen and just frame accordingly.

Don't mess about with shooting 4:3 and cutting off in premiere and letterboxing and so forth. Not if you want a widescreen look. Your shooting on video, not film, so anamorphic lenses and 70mm aspect ratios are better left to the larger more expensive formats.

Shoot 16x9 use filters and lenses and light well and edit well and you'll be great. Trust it.
"Body Count Cinema the Customizable Card Game"
A cinematic CCG coming to a coffee table near you!
www.reelhotgames.com/BodyCountCinema_Home.htm

Ghostboy

Quote from: michael alessandro

Don't mess about with shooting 4:3 and cutting off in premiere and letterboxing and so forth. Not if you want a widescreen look. Your shooting on video, not film, so anamorphic lenses and 70mm aspect ratios are better left to the larger more expensive formats.

Shoot 16x9 use filters and lenses and light well and edit well and you'll be great. Trust it.

Yes, except that I still think it's preferable to shoot 4:3 and crop in post.

Redlum

Yeah the anamorphic squeeze is pretty annoying unless you have a monitor that can deal with it.
\"I wanted to make a film for kids, something that would present them with a kind of elementary morality. Because nowadays nobody bothers to tell those kids, \'Hey, this is right and this is wrong\'.\"
  -  George Lucas

prophet

i was going to say use the mini35 adapter...









so whats this used for???
We gonna do a little Q&A Mr. Worley, and at the risk of sounding redundant please... make your answers Genuine...

Ghostboy

The mini35 adapter lets you mount 35mm lenses on your XL-1. So yeah, if you have a 35mm anamporphic lens, that'll do the trick. It's just that most people can't afford it. If you skip back a page in this thread, we talked a little a bit about it already.

mutinyco

If you don't quit doing that I'm just going to have to close the curtains...
"I believe in this, and it's been tested by research: he who fucks nuns will later join the church."

-St. Joe

mutinyco

Isn't the general rule that you need to go about 10mm longer when using digital as opposed to film? When using 35mm lenses on the XL-1, wouldn't you have to use a 50 instead of a 40 and so on? Digital has a greater depth of field.
"I believe in this, and it's been tested by research: he who fucks nuns will later join the church."

-St. Joe

prophet

QuoteYeah, that's the mini35 adapter from PS Technic. It's awesome, but it costs about four times as much as the camera. Basically what it does is allow you to use 35mm lenses on the XL-1 (or other similar miniDV cams), which increases the picture quality almost exponentially (a lot of people underestimate the amount of image quality that is dependent on the lens). Of course, if you buy the adapter, then you're still gonna need the lenses, which usually cost upwards of 50 grand apiece (thank god for rentals!).

seems like too much work why not just save enough money for Super 16 or 35mm?
We gonna do a little Q&A Mr. Worley, and at the risk of sounding redundant please... make your answers Genuine...

mutinyco

Rental is cheaper. You can rent an XL-1 for like $500 per week. An Arri 16mm camera will do about $500 per day, not including lenses, mags, film to shoot on, etc. By renting an XL-1 with the adapter and lenses, you're going to be cheaper. MUCH cheaper.
"I believe in this, and it's been tested by research: he who fucks nuns will later join the church."

-St. Joe

prophet

or just get a studio to let  you make your movie :)
We gonna do a little Q&A Mr. Worley, and at the risk of sounding redundant please... make your answers Genuine...